Find fall color at Lake Tahoe

My pal Pettit Gilwee writes that it’s leaf peeping season 
in California’s North Lake Tahoe – almost. 
"The trails and roads in North Lake Tahoe are just
 starting to show signs of autumn as the area’s aspens
 transition from a sea of green to a brilliant shade of yellow."
 I love this time of year in Lake Tahoe--autumn's tinges 
of yellow and red create such a lovely contrast with Tahoe’s
 solid wall of pines and firs.

It’s a good time to slow down. “Whether you’re out hiking or
 paddling via kayak, when you see that striking contrast 
in the trees, you just have to take a moment and soak 
it all up,” says Executive Director Bill Hoffman of the
 Incline Village Crystal Bay Visitors Bureau. According 
to Hoffman, the last two weeks of October and the first 
two weeks of November are when the region’s trees really
 start to change over.

Where to see the show? Locals recommend road cycling, 
inline skating and running up Blackwood Canyon on the 
West Shore, located three to four miles south of Tahoe 
City. Blackwood’s paved road takes you from 6,200 feet lake
level to Barker Pass at 7,200 feet.

Eagle Rock, a Tahoe landmark, sits just south of the
 Blackwood Canyon entrance and is an easy 15-minute 
hike to the top, offering panoramic views of the region.
 (The California Tahoe Conservancy recently completed a 
new trail to the top, which has significantly reduced 
pollutants into Lake Tahoe.)

For a scenic alpine lake edged by aspen, check out 
Spooner Lake nine miles south of Sand Harbor State Beach 
(just outside of Incline Village). You’ll find miles of 
hiking trails, as well as a good starting point for those
 venturing into the backcountry for backpacking excursions.

On the Tahoe Rim Trail-- Lake Tahoe’s most popular hiking,
 mountain biking and equestrian trail--you’ll wind through
 more fall color. The 165-mile dirt path circles Lake Tahoe,
 with eight trailheads making it easy to access. Try 
jumping on the trail at Tahoe Meadows on the Mt. Rose 
Summit (Highway 431), at Tahoe City off Fairway Drive 
behind the town’s commercial core 
and at Barker Pass up Blackwood Canyon, the paved 
road is open to cars until they snow flies.

Details: In fall, look for the 2-for-1 dining deals,
 with coupons in area newspapers; significant savings
 on lodging; and many special events. TheVillage Center
 in Incline Village is hosting Oktoberfest October 15
 with German food, beer, live music by Bigg Funn and 
raffle prizes. Furry friends are invited to the Dog 
Days of Fall Dog Party October 15 in Incline Village.
 The 7th Annual Tahoe City Harvest Festival runs through
 October 22 and has a month long Scarecrows on Parade 
decorating downtown Tahoe City. The Lake Tahoe 
Women’s Wellness Weekend is November 12-13.

For more, head to www.GoTahoeNorth.com. And, 
for the best bargains, check out the website’s 
Cool Deals, which is updated daily and includes 
savings on lodging and 
activities.

Cool hiking along California's San Mateo Coast

Early last summer, I decided I'd had enough of the Central Valley's heat and needed a cool escape. So I called my pals Linda and Terry and we headed out to the coast. Pillar Point Harbor, in Half Moon Bay (Northern California), holds a lot of memories for me.

When we were little, our parents would take us kids (four or five, depending on who was away at school) down to Princeton and Pillar Point, with its protected breakwater and small fleet of tiny fishing boats. It seemed a harbor of refuge for the boats even then. As we walked atop the curving jetty, we'd watch mesmerized as waves smashed against the structure's rocky outer edge, while keeping the waters in the harbor smooth as glass. We fished for crabs here, dropping our rented crab pots (baited with cans of dog food--eeuuwww!), and once we even snagged one big enough to keep.

In my memories, the summer skies over the northern California coast are continually overhung with moist, chilly clouds, and a day at the beach always calls for long pants and a jacket. This day, the three of us find the same kind of weather. And boy, is it a relief. The misty harbor is my refuge from the inland's blast furnace heat. In other ways, Pillar Point has changed--now its a modern harbor, and you're discouraged from walking out on the jetty (insurance risks, probably). There's a cute, recently remodeled Pillar Point Bed and Breakfast inn here, and a swanky hotel, the Oceano Hotel and Spa with a village of shops.

The three of us head for one of Linda's fave local lunch stops in Princeton--no ocean views but killer pasta. Mezza Luna Italian Restaurant is housed in a classic old home and the food tastes like Mama Luna must have made it. Try the Linguine della Baia ($15), linguine sauteed with mussels, clams, calamari, shrimp in a light tomato sauce.

From the harbor, you can't really see the huge, killer waves at Maverick's, which break offshore in winter. But it's neat to know that one of the world's premier surf competitions takes place here (waves permitting). If you want some really fresh fish, call the fish phone at 650-726-8724; every morning the harbor master leaves a message describing what fish is for sale right off of the boats. Go early in Dungeness crab season, starting in November. And bring a cooler to haul your catch of the day home.

Linda, Terry, and I opt for a stroll along the Jean Lauer Trail along Pillar Point BLuff, part of the California Coastal Trail and a segment of the Peninsula Open Space Trust (POST). It's an easy ramble of about a mile or so, looking down over parts of the harbor and out to sea (on clear days, it is said, you can see the Farallon Islands from here). The sky is a gunmetal gray this day, as I remember so many 'beach days' from my childhood, and the air is clean and tangy, smelling of kelp, salty mist, and memories.

Details: For lunch, try Mezza Luna Italian Restaurant, 459 Prospect Way, Princeton by the Sea, 650-728-8108. For more trail info on hiking the Jean Lauer Trail at Pillar Point Bluff, visit the outings page on POST’s website: http://openspacetrust.org/activities/tour_pillar.html.

Celebrate the spirit of Martin Luther King, Jr., Day

On MLK Day, it's good to remember the role that people of color played in the world of ranching and cowboyin' (and cowgirlin') across the West. Did you know there's a place that honors such folk? Yep, it's called the National Multicultural Western Heritage Museum, in Fort Worth, Texas. And on January 21, 2011,the museum marks its 10th anniversary. with exhbits featuring the Tuskgee Airmen, the Buffalo Soldiers, and more.

Closer to home, the California African American Museum in Los Angeles serves up a continuing exhibit called How We Roll (July 28, 2010 - March 20, 2011). The exhibit offers “insight into the engagement and cultural influence of African Americans in the sports of surfing, roller skating and skateboarding. How We Roll celebrates personal stories, cheers on the radicals who changed and blended the sports, and the artistry and livelihoods that have grown out of these respective fields. The exhibit is a mixture of sculptural art forms, intertwined with historical facts, personal accomplishments, vintage and contemporary photos, artifacts and videos.” Cool!

Details: The California African American Museum is in Exposition Park, Los Angeles.
Join docent tours Tuesday—Saturday at 10 am, 11 am, 1 pm and 2 pm. Call to book a tour ($3, $2) at 213/744-2084. There's no entry fee to the museum.

Bonkers for birds: Audubon's Christmas bird count

You have to be kind of cuckoo—for birds, that is—to join in the Audubon Society's annual Christmas bird count. This year, I joined the other nuthatches standing in the December drizzle to spot, identify, and count hundreds of birds. And I had a blast. I got to know some neat people, enjoyed a fabulous walk through an oak-filled canyon, and got much better acquainted with my nearby habitat. And I felt like I was making a small contribution to science. Yep--me!

It's a labor of love that has taken place across this nation for 111 years, and now I know what keeps people joining in year after year. You don't have to be an expert bird watcher to take part, thank Heavens, just be willing to help keep eyes and ears open and try to identify and count. What's the point of all this effort? Says the Audubon group, "Each of the citizen scientists who annually braves snow, wind, or rain, to take part in the Christmas Bird Count makes an enormous contribution to conservation. Audubon and other organizations use data collected in this longest-running wildlife census to assess the health of bird populations - and to help guide conservation action."

And what did we find? In my portion of the Sacramento Valley, we counted a total of 4045 birds (says Ruth, head of our bird group); the species count was 76—about average for the last 7 years. Compared to last year, Ruth adds, some of the species that we counted significantly more of are: wood duck, cinnamon teal, ring-necked pheasant, California quail, white-tailed kite, dunlin, bushtit, ruby-crowned kinglet, spotted and California towhee, and lark sparrow. And while its participants may be amateurs, the annual count helps real researchers spot trends and ends up helping birds. "The data collected by observers over the past century allow researchers, conservation biologists, and other interested individuals to study the long-term health and status of bird populations across North America," says the Audubon's website.

I was happy to hear one of my favorite birds, the bufflehead duck (above), was spotted in our area. But what I wanted to see were wood ducks. The males of this specie are as gorgeous as Tom Cruise (and probably as vain). Dramatic, vividly colored, almost garish birds—this was one bird I was eager to see on my Audubon walk. And I wasn't disappointed. At the end of our morning walk, just as the drizzle was letting up and we were about to give it up for the day, we caught sight of eight pair of wood ducks floating about a small pond just a few yards from us. And thanks to the real experts I was walking with (thanks Don and Maxine), I knew what I was looking at.

Details: The annual summary of the Christmas Bird Count, American Birds, is published each fall and contains the regional summaries for all of the counts conducted; check the Audubon website. And if you want to participate next December, sign up; learn more from the Audubon website or contact your local chapter of the Audubon Society.

Mardi Gras in San Jose

You're never too old to celebrate Mardi Gras (Feb. 16). But if your budget (or beads) won't stretch to a trip to New Orleans this year, then head for San Jose's Santana Row and the Roux Louisiana Kitchen. It's a little bit of the Big Easy in Silicon Valley. Tucked on a side street off the main drag in Santana Row, Roux Louisiana is a bold, lively clash of colors (purple and red) and decor, with folk art, photos, and artifacts that would feel right at home in the French Quarter. Off to one side, a stage for weekend live jazz fronts an elliptical, copper-topped bar below a massive, illuminated ceiling sculpture. I can imagine how this place hops at night.

My old college chum Kathy and I are here for lunch and I'm pleasantly surprised that there are so many items on the menu that I could actually eat (I'm notoriously timid about spicy foods). I admit, the closest I've come to visiting Louisiana is seeing the film "The Pelican Brief" , a pretty good legal thriller with Julia Roberts and dishy Denzel Washington . But I'm told that the name "Roux" refers to the classic, flavor-filled base used in many traditional Louisiana dishes, including the state's quintessential specialty, gumbo.

Of course, you'll find many of the Creole, Cajun and Soul Food specialties that have made the Pelican state famous here--and these dishes are also famous for their heat. But our waitress is patient about explaining the menu and steering me to less painful choices. I'm on a diet, sort of, so I bypass the list of killer apps, like BBQ shrimp; bacon-wrapped oysters; sautéed crab cakes with roasted pepper aioli, shrimp rémoulade with fried green tomatoes (hey, gotta save something for next time). Lunch combos ($9.95) offer a choice of seafood gumbo, crafish etouffe, fried or salad with an added side (for $4) of pulled pork sliders, fried chicken, chicken strips, or catfish. Instead, we go right for a couple of their signature dishes: Jambalaya (shown below) with andouille sausage for my friend and crawfish etouffe (it's a seasonal dish) with a side of creamy grits for me.

The grits are a surprise--more like a smooth, triple cheese polenta. The etouffe is moderately filled with tiny crawfish (the taste is similar to lobster, but from a much tinier animal). I confess, I practically licked my plate; I love crawfish and you just can't find them at many restaurants. The Jambalaya was filled with chicken, shrimp, onions, tomatoes and moderately spicy sausage, (delish, says Kathy, and a more than ample portion). For dessert, I'm tempted by the banana Foster bread pudding, but opt instead for the beignets, small doughnut-like concotions covered in powdered sugar and served with hot, chocolate sauce. A pot of hearty, French-press coffee helps further the illusion of a leisurely lunch in the French Quarter (although way too many coffee grounds made their way into my cup). All in all, we give the lunch two thumbs up.

Details: This month, Roux Louisiana Kitchen will celebrate Mardi Gras on Feb. 16 (from 6-9 PM) with a big bash: samples of food/drink, live music, even fire-eaters and bead tossing. Where: 3055 Olin Ave., Suite 1005 (open daily). Reservations 415/249-8000.

A bit of Yosemite at Sunol park

I know, Thanksgiving is tomorrow. So why not plan now to take off the pounds you know you're going to add after our national eating holiday? I've got just the place: Sunol Regional Wilderness in the East Bay. With miles of hiking trails, newly-greened hills, and a rocky gorge dubbed Little Yosemite, it's the perfect antidote to our traditional pig-out and pigskin day.

Last fall, I took a roughly 4-mile hike with pals Linda and Terry, enticed by the prospect of exploring the 6,859-acre wilderness, with more than 25 miles of trail. As I take my hiking poles out of the car, Terry gently teases me about my "canes". I tell him that, while the trail looks gentle enough at the outset, we'll soon be boulder-hopping and grateful for the support provided by the poles.

We trek up the Canyon View Trail, that crosses Alameda Creek and enter a forest of alder, willow, and sycamore. Coast live oaks dot the hillsides, along with valley and blue oak. In the bushes and trees, we spot acorn woodpecker, black phoebe, and titmouse. Overhead, lots of turkey vultures soar; and I keep my eyes peeled for the golden eagle, said to be commonly sighted in this part of the Diablo range.

Soon, we reach the weathered serpentine and sandstone outcrop that marks the entrance to Little Yosemite (there's a picnic table opposite the side trail going down into the gorge). We hop and crawl over massive boulders that give this spot its name. Deep pools reflect yellow and crimson leaves from overhanging trees, and a small waterfall cascades over the lip of a giant blue-green serpentine cliff. It's a magnificent, peaceful place. We pause and spread our small picnic over a flat rock, sharing our cheeses and apples. And on the climb out, I share one of my hiking poles with Linda (and yes, Terry has stopped kidding me about my "canes").

Details: Fall and spring are the best times to hike here, when summer's blast-furnace heat has abated, the grassy hills have colored up, and there's water in the creek. Parking Fee
$5/seasonal, weekends and holidays. The park is at 1895 Geary Road, Sunol, 925/ 862-2218,
925-862-2244 or 925-862-2601. Toll Free: 888-EBPARKS (888-327-2757), option 3, extension 4559.
Park directions: From the Oakland/Berkeley area:
Drive east on I-580 to the junction with I-680 in Pleasanton. At the junction, go south on I-680 and exit at Calaveras Road/Highway 84 just south of the town of Pleasanton. Turn left onto Calaveras Road and proceed to Geary Road, which leads directly into the park.

On ice in San Francisco

Holiday shopping can be a real skate when you do it in downtown San Francisco near a seasonal ice rink. Now, San Francisco doesn't seem like a hotbed of ice skating action (unlike San Jose, which has its own ice hockey team), so you might be surprised to know that there are three super cool rinks near shopping meccas, all open now. And one local rink is home ice to Brian Boitano, four-time US National Champion, two-time World Champion, Olympic gold medalist, and full time nice guy (by all reports).

Boitano does his triple axels out at the city's Yerba Buena Ice Skating Center, and so can you. Set in an urban rooftop garden at Yerba Buena Garden downtown, the center offers ice skating all season long and the view of the city from the rink’s giant window wall is, well, pretty cool.

If you want a setting close to the scenery, and the gourmet gift shopping at the Ferry Building, try Justin Herman Plaza and the Embarcadero Center ice rink. This seasonal rink has returned to the waterfront annually for more than 20 years, and will be open to the public for just nine weeks.

And for cool shopping variety, then you can't do better than the Safeway Holiday Ice Rink in Union Square, surrounded by top shops and posh hotels. The rink is in its second year at Union Square and is also open just about nine weeks.

Details: Yerba Buena Ice Skating Center is at 750 Folsom St., open for public skating daily and there's a Children's Skating School for all levels, including Parent and Me classes. For more, visit www.skatebowl.com. The Embarcadero Center ice rink, at Justin Herman Plaza, is open Nov. 11, 2009-Jan. 3, 2010; for more visit www.embarcaderocenter.com. Safeway Holiday Ice Rink in Union Square is open Nov. 11, 2009-Jan. 18, 2010; for more visit www.unionsquareicerink.com/tickets
PHOTO CREDIT: Yerba Buena Ice Skating Center

Bike tour of the Stanford Campus

Forget that the calendar says November. It is a lovely, spring-like day, so I get a brainstorm: I'm take my new flat-bar road bike on a ride around the campus of Stanford University. In Palo Alto, California, Stanford is famous as one of the world's leading teaching and research institutions. Of course, in my day I wasn't, ahem, mentally gifted enough to gain entry here as a student, but it doesn't take a brainiac to know this is an awesome place to bike around.

I park at the car at Stanford Shopping Center, unhook the bike (so light, so sleek!) from the rack and cross the street to the campus' northwest corner at Arboretum and Quarry roads. At that point, I enter a peaceful, leafy world, where the air actually feels cooler and.. what is it.. rarefied?

First, I pass the memorials to members of the Stanford family (granite tombs that are alternately grand and heartbreaking) and then circle the Arizona Cactus Garden (it looks like one of the giant yuccas is about to bloom).

Popping out on the aptly named Palm Drive, I wheel beneath an avenue of giant palm trees, marching in twin, arrow-straight rows toward the heart of the campus. The road ends at the courtyard for the magnificent Memorial Church, where I pass under rows of arches and instantly recall events at the church that were happy (I once attended a friend's lovely wedding) or poignant (years later, I attended a funeral for a cherished boss).

On campus back lanes, I move eastward, past the dorm where my niece lived during her own college days (I visited her there once and was surprised at how they allowed students to decorate their rooms--enough said).

The campus appears generally flat, but there's a slight rise in elevation, so I gear down to climb to Lagunitas Lake. It's a dry lake bed, once used for the Big Game bonfires (or so I've heard) but its nonetheless pretty and ringed by a jogging trail that is busy this day. I imagine the joggers are actual brainiacs—students and profs alike. And then I think: but the brainiacs have to go back to work/class at the end of their run, don't they, poor devils? Unlike me, the doofus, who graduated from a lowly state school and retired young. I almost sprain my arm from patting myself on the back.

As the sun sinks, I work my way back downhill past the imposing Hoover Tower then circle back toward the Rodin Sculpture Garden. And there they are: the massive bronze Gates of Hell, and the famed Burghers of Calais, bent with cares. Others pieces are scattered around the small, tidy garden and I'm struck anew at how accessible they are. As I roll past, I almost feel the brush of one giant, expressive hand (Rodin's work on hands and feet is simply amazing). Inside the adjacent Cantor Arts Center are more works by Rodin--200 in all in a collection that is the largest in the world outside Paris.

I promise myself to come back for the docent tour--sometime when I'm not all helmeted and lycra-ed up and looking like a doofus.

Details: Docents lead free tours of the Rodin Collection Wednesdays at 2 pm, Saturdays at 11:30 am, and Sundays at 3 pm, rain or shine. Meet in the Cantor Arts Center lobby. It's a great place to bring youngsters. Nearby, Stanford Shopping Center has lots of parking, lovely flower beds year-round, and several good restaurants.

Fremont hike 'n dine

Lake Elizabeth beckons. The placid, 83-acre lake in Fremont's Central Park has 4 playground areas, a lagoon nature area, basketball courts, ballfields, picnic tables and a wide, paved path running along its edge. In summer, the boathouse is busy with rentals and lessons as is the new waterslide park. But on any day, in any season, the path is the big draw: you'll find moms pushing strollers, joggers, cyclists, and power walkers puffing along the walkway.

My pals and I pick a sunny fall day and hit the trail (we carpool, making it a really 'green' day). This morning, the wind is gentle, and puffy clouds dot the sky. Along the 2-mile-long waterside path, we pass beneath giant pepper trees heavy with red berries. The birdwatching isn't bad, either: we spot ruddy ducks, Western grebes, mallards, egrets, and great blue herons.

The walk is not terribly strenuous, but just enough to work up an appetite, so we head for the heart of Fremont's "Little Kabul", to lunch at one of the better known Afghan cafes: Salang Pass Restaurant . It is outstanding. I have the chopan kabab (lamb skewer) and it is tasty and plentiful. Linda has the wonderful Quabili Pallow-a baked brown basmati rice dish with lamb shank, aromatic with spices, raisins and carrots. Francoise and Sara order the Aushuk and Mantoo, each a kind of Afghani ravioli filled with variously lamb or leeks. For dessert, we get four spoons and dive into a Firni, an Afghani pudding with hints of rosewater, cardamom, almonds and pistachios.
My overall review: Yummy and very affordable. I'd go back in a minute. One caveat: it's a little hard to find, but parking is plentiful (in the back).

Details: Salang Pass Restaurant (510/ 795-9200; 37462 Fremont Blvd.). Fremont's Central Park is at 40000 Paseo Padre Pkwy., Fremont, CA; 510/ 790-5541.

Dining deals in San Jose

San Jose's downtown is quickly emerging as a major player on the Bay Area dining scene, with first rate fare from hot chefs like Michael Mina at Arcadia Modern American Steakhouse and fresh, jazzy newcomers like Gumbo Jumbo Cajun Fusion and Habana Cuba Restaurant.

This month there's added incentive to visit this sizzling scene: the DINE DOWNTOWN deals. From June 3-13, extraordinary prix fixe menus at more than 25 of the best restaurants during the first-ever DINE DOWNTOWN event. Three-course dinners go for $20, $30, or $40.

Get a flavor of the food diversity on June 3 with $3-or-less sampler plates at the City Bites Kick Off Sampler Event. The week is packed with promotions and specially crafted menus that showcase each restaurant's unique flavor and flare. It's an easy way to get a real taste of what downtown San Jose has to offer. Want to stay and play awhile? During Dine Downtown, check out deals at various hotels.

Details: For information or reservations, menus and a list of participating restaurants, click here. For lodging and attractions, click here.

Wildflowers and railroads in Suisun, California

A visit to the Western Railway Museum is like stepping into some 1930s American city: a place where streetcars and interurban electric trains not only still run, but they're thronged with riders. That's because this is home to one of the most extensive collections of authentic historic streetcars and interurban electric trains in the U.S.

You can easily spend the better part of a day hopping onto, roaming about, and riding some of these lovingly restored gems—and it won't cost much more than a movie. It's a great place to take kids who want to ride on some fun choo-choos (or even, dare we say, learn more about environmentally smart public transportation). Visit now and you'll catch the last of spring's wildflowers (some of the trins journey past vernal pools).

During summer, May 27 – September 6, the Western Railway Museum expands its operating days and will be open five days each week, Wednesdays through Sundays, from 10:30 – 5. Hour-long excursion trains will operate at 11, 12:30, 2, and 3:30.

Details: $10, $9 seniors (65+), and $7 ages 2 to 14. 707/ 374-2978; off Highway 20 between Fairfield and Rio Vista; www.wrm.org.

UPDATE: Visit Sunset Magazine's blogs...or their gardens

UPDATE: Sunset Magazine's One Block Diet blog has earned earned the Best Blog award, given out by one of America's most prestigious food awards programs. Dubbed “the Oscars of the food world,” by Time magazine, The James Beard Foundation Awards are a coveted honor for chefs, food media, authors, designers, and architects. It's pretty special company.

Make time to check out the blog and you'll see why they've been honored. The writing is lively, real, and a compelling look at the Sunset team's attempt at making beer, starting a beehive, making wine, and raising chickens (including an unfortunate encounter with rats—talk about gettin' real!). And while you're at it, visit the Sunset Traveler blog, which covers topics around the West (one of my recent faves was a post on watching puffins in Oregon).

Congratulations to the One Block bloggers at Sunset Magazine!

Meanwhile, don't forget you can take a free, self-guided tour of the Sunset Publishing Headquarters' beautifully landscaped gardens and grounds (be sure to peek into the test garden). Step inside the grand double doors of the Cliff May-designed landmark, pick up a free self-guided tour booklet, and roam the 7-acre grounds. You'll see everything from floral border plantings to tall redwoods. Strolling the gardens makes a great springtime outing, even if you come away a teensy bit intimidated by what they've managed to pack into their 'backyard'.

And to find out what’s growing in the editors’ own gardens, just check the masthead in the April issue; there's a mention of what every staffer has growing this spring in their own garden (tomatoes are big this year). It’s an inspiring idea; after all, you've gotta think, if these busy folks can grow it, why can’t I?

Details: 80 Willow Rd., Menlo Park, CA; open weekdays (holidays excluded) 9-4:30.

Bon Appetit… Affordable French Cuisine in the Bay Area

By Linda Lau Anusasananan

Fifteen years ago Roland Passot, chef/owner of San Francisco’s elegant La Folie created Left Bank, a casual, lively brassiere that served everyday French classics such as Onion Soup Gratinée and Steak Frites. His prototype has multiplied five-fold with locations in Menlo Park, San Mateo, Pleasant Hill, Santana Row, and Larkspur.

A few weeks ago, Lora (my travel pal and author of this blog) and I visited Left Bank Brasserie in San Mateo. I fell in love with the new menu. There were tempting choices for every taste. Best of all, prices seemed fair. Some even offered great value, considering the quality ingredients and generous portions.

We started with typical French aperitifs Pastis and Lillet as we studied the menu. There were so many appealing choices we had a hard time deciding what to order. We asked recently promoted Executive Chef Brendy M. Monsada (left) for his personal favorites. He suggested the Navarin D’Agneau (lamb stew $18.50) and Halibut with sautéed Calamari, braised in Fennel Broth ($23.50). Both were delicious and generously portioned. In the lamb stew, spring vegetables such as sugar snap peas, baby turnips, and carrots added a fresh lightness to tender chunks of lamb, braised in veal stock and white wine. Olives, sweet cherry tomatoes, and fava beans gave the halibut a Provençal persona.

We were intrigued with the Les Tartes Flambées, described as classic Alsatian thin crust savory tarts. We chose the Périgord ($11.75) simply because I love duck confit. We ordered it as a first course. Out came a 10-inch tart, somewhat akin to pizza. The very crisp, blistered, cracker-thin crust was blanketed with delicious moist shreds of duck confit, mushrooms, and truffle vinaigrette. It was hearty enough to be our whole meal. We had to stop ourselves from consuming the whole tart so we could eat the rest of our dinner.

There were so many dishes I wanted to taste, I stopped by again a few nights ago. I seriously considered the Monday special Roasted Duck å L’Orange ($19.50). A different French classic such as Cassoulet ($19.50), or Beef Short Rib Pot au Feu ($19.95) is offered every day of the week. I was tempted by the three-course Prix Fixe by Passot ($26.50) which that night included Mesclun Salade, Basque Tarte Flambée, and Crème Brulée. I finally chose the regional two-course Tour of France Prix Fixe ($28) that changes monthly.

May’s menu from the Loire Valley featured Artic char (below, right) with a soft coral color similar to salmon set on a bed of white and green asparagus in a delicate sorrel sauce. A regional cheese followed. The handmade goat’s milk cheese, Le Chevrot,, came with cherry compote, candied pecans, and toasted baguette slices. My husband opted for his perennial Left Bank favorite, Moules Florentine (steamed mussels with spinach and white wine $11.75). A huge bowl overflowing with petite mussels is a meal in itself.

I can’t wait to go back again and explore the menu further. Dining at Left Bank tastes like a trip to Paris, without the plane ticket!

About our guest writer: Linda Lau Anusasananan is a freelance writer/editor and recipe developer. She was a food writer/editor and recipe editor at Sunset Magazine for 34 years. Currently she is working on a Chinese cookbook and http://jadesauce.com/blog.

Best view of the Golden Gate Bridge?

Sometimes, I avoid some of the Bay Area’s most beautiful spots because “only tourists go there”. I suppose its natural: I’ve grown up with postcard-pretty spots—such as the Marin Headlands—just a short drive from home, so I often take them for granted. And other times, I remember: they’re a big part of why I still live here.

Here I am on a Friday, crossing the Golden Gate Bridge and looking up through the sunroof to a robin’s egg-blue sky behind the ocher-red thrust of the bridge’s North Tower. Pulling off at the Alexander Avenue exit, I bear right, then left onto Bunker Road heading through a cut in the mountain, and then right up into the Marin Headlands. Part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, the headlands stretch north from the end of the Golden Gate Bridge and remain a vivid, gloriously beautiful reminder of the foresight of long-ago planners. And the best place for a spectacular view of the Golden Gate Bridge.

I drive the snakelike Bunker Road past greening hills edged by 360° views of a placid blue bay, stern, dark cliffs, and a white city; I say a silent prayer of thanks to San Francisco area citizens who campaigned to save the open space I'm standing on from developers so many years ago. If this were L.A…

Sure there are tourists up here: they’re dazzled by the views too, and happily snapping photos of each other like papparazzi going after Tom Cruise. But they don’t bother me. After they snap their pix, they’ll head for home. Me, I’m trying to decide what I want to do first here: explore old NIKE missle sites, roam historic Fort Barry and Fort Cronkhite, or trek out to the 150 year-old Point Bonita lighthouse. I end up hiking trails around sun-dappled Rodeo Lagoon and watching brown pelicans skim the waves. Of course, I don’t have to do it all today. I live here. I’ll be back.

Details: Contact the San Francisco CVB by clicking here, or call 415/331-1540.

New Sonoma Coast tasting room

Looking for a new place to taste the vintages of some of Sonoma County's smaller wineries? Make a daytrip to the new Sonoma Coast Tasting Room at Timber Cove Inn; it showcases local boutique wines on weekends (including three-day holiday weekends) from mid-April through October, open noon to 5.

Here's how it works: each weekend, a different local winery will be featured, with pourings by a winery representative who will be available to answer questions. Tasting room visitors can enjoy four 2-oz. tastings of wine (cost: $15-$20), with the option of a four-course cheese pairing for $10.

The entire tasting room collection of Sonoma Coast wines will be available for purchase. Corkage will be free for guests that purchase a bottle of wine to accompany their dinner at the Timber Cove's restaurant, Alexander's (which now has a new executive chef, Jon Mortimer, nominated for the prestigious James Beard 2008 Best Restaurant/Northwest award).

Guests can sign up for local winery newsletters and clubs. Shipping from the Timber Cove Inn can be arranged for those who wish to send wine home.

Details: the Timber Cove Inn is at 21780 North Coast Hwy 1, Timber Cove; 707/ 847-3231 or click here.

New California mission exhibits in Southern California

La Purísima Mission State Historic Park (SHP), near Lompoc, is one of the best restored and best interpreted missions in the entire California chain of 21 historic churches. And soon it will be even better. Six years in the making, new life-size figures and historical displays will go into the recently-upgraded museum at La Purísima Mission, in one of the most extensive exhibit projects ever undertaken by California State Parks. The 14 new exhibits are set to open for the first time on Saturday, April 25^th in the Visitor Center at La Purísima Mission SHP.

Some exhibits interpret the early days before the mission, when the land was occupied by the Chumash people (see image of mural, right). Several tell the mission period story. Another describes the revival of interest in California missions in the late 1800s—early1900s and led to the 1934 decision to restore La Purísima Mission. It became the largest restoration project ever done by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in California.
An opening ceremony will be held from 1 to 2 PM, after which the exhibits will be open to the public. The ceremony will also commemorate the restoration of the mission by the Civilian Conservation Corps.

Details: Call 805/733-3713 or click here.

San Francisco treat: tulips in Golden Gate Park

I've always meant to make a spring pilgrimage to visit the Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden, in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park. Last week, I finally made the trek and I'm so glad I did. At the far west end of John F. Kennedy Drive and wedged into a corner of the city's big, oblong park, this little gem is pretty enough to be a park all by itself.

Laid out before a tall, Dutch-style windmill, this garden was named in 1962 for the late queen of the Netherlands (a fascinating, fiesty, and complex lady). The windmill once worked—it pumped irrigation water into a reservoir on Strawberry Hill, inside the park—but now serves mostly as a postcard-pretty backdrop for visitors snapping pix of the flowers (like me). But the real stars are the wide variety of tulips and other annuals (including Icelandic poppies). They were still at their peak when I snapped my pix, but go soon—the show is an ephemeral beauty, and can disappear with the next rainstorm.

Details: In San Francisco's Golden Gate Park, the Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden is open, free, on John F. Kennedy Drive near the intersection with the Great Highway. Bring a picnic and make it a totally free day. Or, since you're out at that end of the park, pop into the Beach Chalet Brewery and Restaurant for a pint of their California Kind (amber) or Fleishhacker Stout handcrafted beers and a pile of garlic fries and wild Dungeness crab cakes. Yum.

Pacheco State Park Wildflower Hikes

This land, south of San Jose, has been a horse and a cattle ranch since 1843 and remains fairly untouched in spots. For the intrepid California travel girls among us, Pacheco State Park is not that far off the beaten track and offers some breathtaking views: the Central Valley to the east and the Santa Clara Valley to the west. It also serves up some great wildflower displays, from fairy rings of flowers edging vernal pools to swaths of poppies and lupine on hills overlooking San Luis Reservoir.

Park naturalist Jennifer Morgan will help you find the wildflowers on free guided hikes every Saturday and Sunday in April (no hike on Easter Sunday). And you’ll learn about the Native American and pioneer uses of plants and rich history of Pacheco Pass. It’s one of the newer and less developed parks and the trail system is still being worked on, so its good to have a guide here.

Details: The hike is about 2 miles long and is classed as moderate. Time: 10:00 a.m. – noon every Saturday and Sunday in April (no hikes Easter Sunday, April 12th)starting March 29.

Pacheco State Park is located 18 miles west of Los Banos and 20 miles east of Gilroy on “Dinosaur Point” Road off of Highway 152. Turn south onto Dinosaur Point Road, then take the first right, through the park gate. Fees: $5 day use fee per vehicle

Getting a Taste of Yountville in the Napa Valley

The best part of last weekend's Taste of Yountville (part of the Napa Valley's annual Mustard Festival)? We got to nibble on tasty treats from restaurants so highly rated, travelers come from across the globe just to dine there.

Yountville has more Michelin stars than any other small town in the state, and all the biggies are represented here. Some 15 area restaurants and some 20 wineries, along with mustard, olive oil, and other vendors ply us with goodies. We nibble bites from some of the top restaurants in the Napa Valley: pork rilletes from the French Laundry, brownies from Bouchon Bakery, and a variety of goodies from Bistro Jeanty, Brix Restaurant among others.

Afterward, we wander the neighboring V Marketplace, full of stores designed in Foodie-Heaven, like Napa Style (complete with wine tasting bar and upscale deli). There's even time to poke our heads into one of the newest (and, apparently, greenest) hotels in the valley: Bardessono. It's handsome, but in a spare and cold sort of way, with lots of angles, stonework, and fountains. Still, at $450 a night (starting rates), this peak is probably the closest I'll ever get to a stay here.

New dining in Yountville: Bottega

Days later, my friend JoAnn is still raving about our recent lunch at Bottega, the hot new Yountville restaurant by Food Network star and Napa Valley local, chef Michael Chiarello. "What a treat!" says JoAnn. "It was really awesome to be able to try the food at Bottega—everything was fabulous." Now JoAnn, a magazine stylist and taste-maven, is not unaccustomed to fine food, so her raves mean something. Here's how our day unfolded:

We're here for the Taste of Yountville, and annual food-and-wine tasting event that takes over the streets of this tiny town. But we're early, so first we stop for "a bite" at Bottega, where we're greeted at the table by general manager Joel Hoachuck, who is a pretty distinctive guy--I mean, you can't miss the curly moustache and twinkling dark eyes as he roams through the restaurant. He looks a bit like the Agatha Cristie detective, Hercule Poirot. And, like Poirot, he unravels a few mysteries (in this case, about the house specialties).

To describe the food as Italian cuisine is to leave out so much. The menu is divided into Stuzzichini (bites to share), Antipasti, Pasta, Secondi (main course) and Contorni (vegetable side dishes). Turns out, what Bottega really specializes in is giving diners a slice of Italy: house-cured meats, housemade pasta, olives, cheeses and so on. The menu is a kind of "greatest hits" of micro-regional Italian cuisine; Chef Chiarello includes his picks of the best dishes from across Italy and anchors them with artisanal, heritage, or house-made ingredients. And our intended "bite" becomes a four-course meal!

Our faves: Organic Prosciutto “house cured” and light and flavor-packed, accompanied by a cup of Lambrusco ($11). "The Lambrusco is a wine that's not well known here, but used right, it's a light and refreshing accent," Joel tells us.

By now, Joel really has our attention, so when he insists we try the Ricotta Gnocchi ($14) topped by salsa pomodoro alla nonna and pecorino, we're all ears. "There's no potato in it and its light as fried air," he says. He's right--they practically float. And for our entree, we agree to split the garlic roasted Dungeness Crab crab (with saffron aïoli and bruschetta) for $29 was big enough that we split it between us.

For dessert, we enjoyed the warm chocolate cake (with its fun presentation), but the lemon tart with huckleberries was our fave by far.

"I don't eat this way every day," says JoAnn, "but I could get the hang of it really

quickly! And Joel also added so much fun to the tasting." So when you go, be sure to look for Joel and take note of his enthusiastic recommendations--he knows his stuff.

Details: Bottega, 6525 Washington St. (at V Marketplace), Yountville; 707/945-1050 or www.botteganapa.com. Reservations advised. For more lodging and dining ideas, visit the Yountville Chamber of Commerce.

Next week: our Taste of Yountville adventure...